POST 1214; JANUARY 14, 2014; FORKS, WASHINGTON

Having stayed overnight in Forks, I set off at daybreak 0800 hours (8:00 am) south on US 101.  Naturally, I was dressed to the 9's ready for another day of continuous rain ... and naturally, it did not rain a drop.  So, was over dressed and within one hour was again soaked to the skin...this time from sweating under all those rain clothes.  By the time I returned to Forks, I was again freezing cold from being soaked from the inside out.  Today walked 6 hours, covering some 24 miles.

It is now 1530 hours (3:30 pm), back at the Thriftway Super Market...with today's blog nearly complete.

I shall stay one more night here in Forks.  Before daylight tomorrow, I shall drive SPIA-2 some 45 miles to the Lodge at Lake Quinault.  From there, I will walk back north on US 101 to fill in the 20 or so miles I need to complete the un-walked portion.

Please say HELLO to CARRIE.  Carrie is the Thriftway Coffee Shop hostess who has been so kind as to allow me to use one of her tables to complete our blog of yesterday...and again  today.

Please say HELLO to MARK, joined me this morning in the coffee shop while I waited for daylight...never walk these treacherous roadways in the dark...especially with logging trucks whizzing by inches away.

Mark, recently retired from the Corps of Engineers, currently lives in Forks, helping out with the activities of youngsters.

There are a number of trailers completing the housing of Forks.  This scene of smoke puffing out chimneys of a number of trailers looks very much like it is cold...and yes, even without rain, it is cold again this morning.

My goal for today was to reach the Hoh Rain Forest...and back to Forks.  I failed ! ...as I turned around a mile or so short of the Rain Forest entrance...will take a whack at it in the morning, walking from Lake Quinault which lies some 18 miles to the south of the Hoh Rain Forest.

Plan to stay at the Lake Quinault Lodge (parking lot) tomorrow night...then on Thursday, walk south on US 101 toward the city of Hoquim, Washington in the Grays Harbor region some 50 miles from Lake Quinault.

Please say HELLO to LARRY, owner of McLANNAHAN LUMBER COMPANY.  Until late 1970s, Larry was a logger - cutting down the monster trees nearby.  He then started up his lumber company, specializing is high quality trees with tight straight grain wood (the better trees are slow growing, producing tighter and straighter grain), which is prized for "finishing" lumber such as higher quality buildings and specialty wood for boat building / repairing.

This region was recently - probably within the past 25 years or so - logged off (i.e., trees were cut down).  Here and there a specially selected "first growth" tree is left standing, such as the one in the above image.  This chosen tree is left to re-seed new growth...considered a sometimes better quality "offspring" trees.

Most logging of today is "clear cut"; i..e., every single tree in sight is cut down, with the denuded land subsequently hand planted with tiny seedling trees...planted into the earth completely by hand.

Such a "reforested" hand planted area is again ready to harvest trees (cut down the new trees) within 75 - 100 years of being hand planted.  Observant travelers will find "billboards" within the roadside forests giving the dates the surrounding trees were last harvested (cut down), and when the new growth trees are expected to ready to again be harvested...something like 75 - 100 years into the future.

The above "silo" is a survivor from 100 or so years ago.  In days gone by, small lumber mills dotted the landscape of the forests of the West.  The "waste" drops / sawdust from sawing the logs into lumber was "thrown away", i.e., there was no market for it.  Most saw mills had "silos" - most much larger than the one pictured above - where the "waste" material was deposited and burned...just to get rid of it.  The top of the metal silo enclosure is covered by a screen which allows smoke to escape, but which holds in any burning or hot embers from escaping (and setting the local forest on fire).

Such "silos" are of some historic value, but will never again be used to burn up the waste wood.  ALL such drops are used to create "Presto Logs" for heating in home fireplaces, to create "Press Board" for making furniture, or "chip board" for making Plywood.

Please say HELLO to MYHAH, here hand chopping Cedar Shingle Drops into "kindling" for starting fires in her fireplace or wood burning stove.  She, together with her husband own and operate a Shingle Factory...high quality Cedar Shingles for high quality roofing of homes.

Completed roofing shingles in the storage portion of the factory of Myhah and her husband.

...offered for sale to passing public for use to start fires (kindling) or camp wood for use in camp fires for campers / hunters.

Bogachiel River.

If small enough to be carried off, Cedar trees and logs are subject to theft.

Please say HELLO to ED.  Ed, originally from the city of Everett (where Boeing builds the 747 and 777 aircraft), some years ago moved to Forks and is employed at Larry's Mc Lannahan Lumber Company.  On my way back to Forks, Ed met me on US 101 to chat and share some thoughts he has about religion.

Wish you well, Ed...you are among the lucky to have found your treasured place.

A view of Larry and Ed's lumber yard...where the finest of high grade lumber can be purchased for those special projects.

Imagine for a moment ... the above image is looking down onto a tumbling stream from about 50 feet above.  Those black arms reaching into the turbulent flow form fish ladders to "pool" the water, allowing migrating Salmon to more easily climb the steep walls of water rushing down from the Olympic Mountains just a stone throw away.  Many of the hundreds of mountain streams falling from the Olympic Mountains are "home" to Salmon returning from the Pacific Ocean to the very same spot in the very same creek from which the Salmon were hatched some 2 to 4 years before.

After hatching, the "fingerlings" remain in their "birthplace" for up to  year before migrating back to the Pacific Ocean, where they live for up to 4 years before returning to their "birth spot".  Much of the time in the Ocean is spent along the waters off Russia's SIBERIA.

Local Washington State mountain rivers and streams are therefor of critical importance to the continuation of the Salmon migrations.  Each specie of Salmon has it's own migration cycle...but each specie returns to it individual birth place to renew the cycle of life.

Some years ago, I owned and lived on a 10 acre farm near the city of Renton, Washington (where Boeing builds the highly successful 737 aircraft).  My farm included a Salmon stream, where King Salmon - some larger than 50 pounds - returned each year to spawn in the shallow waters of my stream as it crossed my pastureland.

Yes, my life contains many such surprises...which we will eventually get to reveal.

* * * * * * * * * *

Finally - it is now 1600 hours (4:30 pm), I am warming up.  The cloud cover is finally breaking up, with rays of sunshine peeking through.  Hopefully this cold rainy spell is leaving us.  I could use some warmer drier days for the next few days walking south on US 101.

POST 1213; JANUARY 13, 2014; FORKS, WASHINGTON

It was quite early and dark when we set out this morning.  Rain was falling, the air was cold, and the wind was blustery.  Passing 18-wheeler logging trucks drenched me as though walking through a car wash...and I had no rain pants on...and no rain-proof shoes.

Ending our first of three walking sessions today, I was soaked thru and thru...cold to shivering, and forgot to take along a 5-hour power drink.  Gotta love walking in the middle of the winter through the Olympic Mountains.  Have yet to meet another walker - or biker for that matter.

Guess I am the only crazy one...but then, I have always pushed this nearly 80 year old body...and have yet to find limits to keep it from venturing forth again tomorrow.

Concentrated this morning walking the southern shore of Lake Crescent...a lake I have admired some 70 years ago and never get enough of it.

It remained dark most of the day.  Around 0900 hours (9:00 am), the wind died down; but the rain continued as a liquid sunshine drizzle...never did warm up today.

More and more beautiful forested mountains.

...with dozens of plunging torrential streams....

...and barren moss covered trees struggling for a toe hold along the rock strewn shore line of Lake Crescent.

At 1200 (12:00 noon), it was nearly dark...rain drizzling from dense cloud cover.

Finally, some wild life ventured out.  This doe (female) deer allowed me to approach rather close before my camera flash caused her to walk into the brush.

Bridges on this part of US 101 are of a design 100 + years ago...narrow roadway with NO berm.  A sidewalk was included on one side, thank goodness, as there was no way one could walk or even run across the bridge without encountering trucks.  Reminds me of the two bridges in Mississippi which I attempted to cross (no sidewalks), and had to climb into the steel girders to avoid being hit by 18-wheelers.

This is the SOL DUCK RIVER...swollen from all the recent rain.

Not certain if these are Llama or not...but they were quite shy and would not approach me.

Arrived at the town of Forks about 1400 hours (2:00 pm) by car.  Found a parking place at the local Church Of God church; then walked for 3 hours to complete the third walk of the day.  The church invited me to take a shower (I really needed a shower, having not bathed since leaving Bellingham two weeks ago).  The hot water was worth everything as I was soaking wet and chilled to the bone.  There may have been some mis-understanding about my staying overnight at the church, as no one followed up an earlier invitation to do so.  

In any event, I am now at the THRIFTWAY Super Market preparing this blog of the day...and have been invited to sleep in the Mazda MPV overnight in the parking lot.

La Push is an indian village located on the Pacific Ocean.  Many years ago during a stay in the beach side cabin at La Push (in 1962), I was invited to join in with the locals in hewing out the wood from one of five Cedar Ocean going Canoes which were being constructed by hand.  The locals later hand paddled all five canoes all the way (about 250 miles) to Seattle to participate in the festivities of the World Fair...the same one which dedicated the Space Needle...which, by the way, my Dad had a hand in delivering the large gear which causes the revolving restaurant to rotate...once around each hour.

Walking through Forks 2.5 years ago, these two girls were only hours before killed in a traffic accident.  I again stopped at their monument to share a few feelings with / for them.

These familiar trees look much like White Birch.  They are in fact, local ALDER trees...one of the finest woods for fire places...and smoking Salmon.

In the morning, will leave SPIA-2 in the Thriftway Parking Lot as I once again walk south on US 101.  The next town is something like 100 miles away...will be a lonely, cold, and probably wet journey.

Again, my special thanks to the recent donations of $$.  Takes the pressure off from worry about having to temporarily halt our walk.

POST 1212; JANUARY 12, 2014; PORT ANGELES, WASHINGTON

Having spent a second night in Port Angeles, the wicked rain / wind storm has passed through.

I am not much good at sitting idle waiting for time to pass...I must get back into the game; i.e., I must walk !

So, this morning I set off from Port Angeles at 0830 hours (8:30 am) - leaving the Mazda MPV parked at the Safeway Supermarket.  At 1430 hours (2:30 pm) I returned to fetch the car...and since Safeway has computer friendly tables / electricity, decided to call it a day having walked some 25 miles toward our next town:  Forks.

It is now 1600 hours (4:00 pm), with our blog for the day nearly complete.  It remained cold and overcast, but only sporadic rain.  Another bottle of 5-hour energy enhancing helped climb up and down numerous steep mountain hills.

Feels good to be back on the road.

A number of mountain-oriented photographs follow without comment...just beautiful to behold...

Many 18-wheeler Logging Trucks ply this part of US 101, which we are now walking.  The above image is a station where such logging trucks stop to have their load of logs measured and graded as they exit the nearby forest logging areas.

This entire region - the Olympic Peninsula  - is Indian Country.  Local indigenous folks (Indians) are master carvers, be it cedar log canoes or Totem Poles such as the one pictured above.

It is my desire to circle the US of A, using roadways which skirt the extremities of the land.  The above sign post directing traffic on Washington State Highway 112 to the Indian town of Sekiu / Neah Bay, is a one-way roadway to the Northwestern most point of the Pacific Northwest, some 50 miles distant.  It is a single road...i.e., there is no continuation beyond Sekiu, so it does not qualify to be walked in our quest.

As we reach distant southern areas, numerous "continuous" by-way roadways will be encountered which will take us away from US 101...and onto secondary roadways which skirt close to the Pacific Ocean...not normally traveled by tourists heading from point A to point B.

When not loaded with logs, many truckers carry the "trailer" unit piggy back on the truck...other truckers tow that piggy back "trailer" behind.

Encountered the "JUNCTION" - a local Tavern (Bar and Grill).  Stopped in to get warm, only to encounter the NFL Football game between the 49ers and Carolina.  Took a moment to take a photograph...then continued on my way into the distant Olympic National Forest and ELWA River Valley (and back to Port Angeles, some 14 miles distant).

Scenery which needs no explanation...The Olympic Mountains have NO foothills.  All Olympic Mountains are big and beautiful.

Beginning of the ELWA River Valley...where we walked for a few miles before turning back to Port Angeles.  It was along the Elwa River that many years ago, I hunted Elk - with no success.

A "logging road"  heading into the back country of the Olympic Mountains.

Returning on US 101 to Port Angeles, the view is different from walking in the other direction.  This view is looking Northward across the fabled Straits of Juan de Fuca...looking at the distant mountains of Canada's Vancouver Island.  The world famous city of VICTORIA, British Columbia, Canada, is just a bit to the right of this image's view...a short ferry boat ride from Port Angeles.

We plan to remain at the Western edge of the city of Port Angeles tonight...to take advantage of the 24-hour services of Safeway's Grocery Store.  Before dawn in the morning, will drive SPIA-2 some 28 miles west on US 101, where we will park and continue our walk to the small town of Forks, some 45 miles distant from tonight's parking spot.

I wish to thank those who have "donated" $$ to further my effort to keep forging ahead on our walk and roll.  Your kindness is very much appreciated.

p.s.:  my left knee injured in the fall on the icy bridge a few days ago is again swelling and quite painful.  Tonight will be treated with some IBUPROFEN.

Sure wish the rear door handle worked...is a real chore to wiggle my way out of the sleeping quarters !

POST 1211; JANUARY 11, 2014; PORT ANGELES, WASHINGTON

What a Fine Kettle of Fish we find ourselves in.

Yesterday I reported that the Seattle Seahawks play on Sunday.  I was wrong.

The Seahawks play today, Saturday, at 1:00 pm (noon).

As predicted, a strong storm descended upon the Olympic Peninsula yesterday afternoon.  It rained heavily all night and at 0900 hours (9:00 am), it is still raining rather hard.  So, I have decided to remain here in Port Angeles for another night.

As a matter of fact, I may remain here in Port Angeles for the next three weeks.  The reality of lack of $$ funds has once again set in.  Since bringing along the Mazda MPV, which consumes one gallon each 20 miles, I have calculated that $$ will run out somewhere between here and the Columbia River, some 250 miles to the south.

Figure it is more intelligent to sit tight in a place where overnight parking is available...and where tourists find facilities without having to take on the cost of a motel.  Most receptive businesses and city properties allow 24 hour parking.  Since there are a number of such locations, by alternating  each night, I may not wear out my welcome.

Then too, the town of Sequim is only 15 or so miles away...which town also provides welcome overnight facilities such as WAL-MART.

On the Second of each month, my Social Security $$ arrives at my bank.  The additional $725.00 available from previously $$ spent on the apartment, should be more than sufficient to fund continuing our walk and roll around America.  I counted on being refunded my $500.00 "apartment deposit".  Management made it clear that no such refund should be expected...and if any $$ was refunded, it would take many weeks for the wheels of progress to make it happen.  In the increasingly "Social State" in which we live, we become increasingly dependent upon the oft-times irrational decisions of those who have become our "overlords".

I thought seriously about remaining in Bellingham.  Psychologically, it was necessary that I move on, hoping my $400.00 available in pocket would support us until February 02.  I miscalculated, as only $250 remains after covering only 100 miles in the first week...with another three weeks to go before "payday".

One would think that by now I would have a reasonable understanding about $$ management.  The extreme cold of the past week has slowed down our walk.  I would normally walk 200 miles in one week, whereas we have achieved only 100 miles.

Better, I argue with myself, to be in a friendly town instead in isolated mountain country when funds run out.

Then too, with perhaps the entire remainder of my life dedicated to walking, it matters little where I spend today, tomorrow, or for that matter, the next few weeks.  Be certain that we WILL complete our current circumnavigation of America.  This little matter of $$ management is but temporary.  My life has been a series of adventures and obligations...all of which have been consummated successfully.  I see no reason to change at this later moment.

So, please hang in there.  We will soon be on our way once again.

For the record, I no longer have any pains...and SPIA-2 is doing well.

POST 1210; JANUARY 10, 2014; PORT ANGELES, WASHINGTON

As pleasant as it is to sleep inside our MPV (Mazda Van), it requires me to become a contorsionist to get out.  The back door handle has broken, requiring me to clamber over the front seats to exit through the front door.  There is little enough room between the front seats to twist and contort my body.  Found the best approach is to lie on my back, feet toward the front of the vehicle, and slither between the 8" space into the drivers seat.  One advantage is that I am becoming a bit more flexible, which cannot hurt these old bones and sinews.

Set out before sun up to walk US 20 the 17 miles to Port Angeles, only to find that the DOT (Department of Transportation), State of Washington, has seen fit to make US 20 a divided highway...and have the audacity to identify it as a freeway...no walking on the freeway.  It is no more a freeway than I am Santa Clause.  The entire roadway is NOT limited access.  At best, it is simply a divided roadway, accessible in the entire US of A to all modes of movement, including walking.

In any event, I returned to our MPV and drove to Port Angeles, where we parked.  Then walked back East on US 20 (no longer called a freeway) to Sequim.

It is considerably warmer.  No appreciable wind.  Still overcast and heavy humidity in the air.  Started out with a heavy body, putting a strain on the ole' body.  Stopped at a convenience store to purchase one of those magical "5 - hour" bottles of energy.  Those things really do work.  Within 5 minutes, my heaviness vanished and I breezed through the next 3 hours of walking.

Came across this rendering of the Olympic Peninsula (finally found how to spell it).  We are presently in the large town (small city) of Port Angeles, Washington, on the Southern Shore of the Straits of Juan de Fuca as it enters from the Pacific Ocean into the SALISH Sea (Puget Sound).  To reach the Columbia River at the Oregon border, we will nearly circumnavigate the Olympic Mountains.

Historic Note:  My Mother's family were part of the California 49'ers Gold Rush back in the mid 1800s.  They invested their new wealth in land in what is today Port Angeles...speculating that the cross-USA railroad would terminate at Port Angeles.  To their disappointment, the railroad stopped at Seattle, some 100 miles to the East.  Not to be totally wiped out, some members opened new gold mines in the Cascade Mountains adjacent to the Canadian border, where many family members worked the sites.  Mother's Brother, Leo, was one of the prospectors.  Leo promised to take me to the claims, but he never did.

The above is the fabled "18 - Wheeler" which roars past my shoulder 12 inches away as I walk the by-ways of America's roadways.  It was one of these rigs - including 60 foot long trailer - in which I learned to drive.  My first "solo" was when I was 12.  Got my license - driving such a rig loaded with lumber from the small logging town of Republic - near Spokane, Washington, - when I was 14.  Dad was a good liar...and I aced both the written and driving (including backing up) tests.

As youngsters, my siblings and I were implicitly trusted is nearly all things.  Such trust has served me well...as it still does as we thrust our way through this challenging life.  Why, I soloed my first airplane after only 45 minutes of ground and in-the-air instruction...also at 12 years of age.

To this date, I have yet to put my first scratch on bicycle, car, truck, airplane, or yacht.  To do so would be a horrific failure on my part.

Walking US 20 this morning, I came upon this tray of 6-inch Herring.  Scandinavians would pickle these guys and make din din out of them.  Folks from Port Angeles use them for quite a different purpose.  They are heavily salted to firm up the flesh...then attached to a fishing line, using two hooks imputing a slight bend into the herring body to make the "fish bait" limp through the water as would an injured herring.  The entire purpose to to entice...the Pacific Salmon...to strike the herring bait.  Local Port Angeles salt waters of the Strait of Juan de Fuca abound year round with salmon...at this time of year - Winter - one can catch "Blackmouth" aka "King" Salmon upwards to 25 or so pounds.

At other times of the year, different species of salmon, along with Ling Cod, Halibut, and even the occasional shark will find the above herring bait enticing.

Two years ago, Jerry opened the above "old time bait shop" in Port Angeles.  Offering a wide range of fishing equipment, Jerry's $100,000.00 inventory is certain to contain at least one special lure to complete a successful fishing trip.  One need only fish from the shore...for certain types of Salmon (Steelhead, for example), or boat a few yards off shore to catch the fabled Salmon.

Some successful Port Angeles fisherman.

Yes, I too am a Salmon fisherman...for my entire life, beginning as a "babe in arms" of a few weeks old, when I, lying inside an Apple Box, was taken by row boat into the waters of the Puget Sound (SALISH SEA) back during the mid 1930's days of the Great Depression.  Truth be told though, I could not hold a candle to little brother, Jim...now there was a fisherman !!!   When no one was catching fish, Jim ALWAYS came home with the Salmon...regretfully, Jim passed away back in 2008...and I converse with him almost daily...after all, he and I shared the same bed for my first 10 years.   Often I have said I spent more years in bed with Jim that did his three wives !

Victoria, British Columbia, Canada, is a stone throw across the Straits of Juan de Fuca from Port Angeles.  Travel overseas is but a short boat ride from where I set in yet another Safeway Supermarket in Port Angeles, producing today's offering.  I have many times visited Victoria...and old-time English City well worth the time to visit.

On Sunday, the Seattle Seahawks play the New Orleans Saints NFL Football team.

The town of Port Angeles is all a gaga over the Seahawks.  Every business marquee is promoting the Hawks.  Without question, Port Angeles is promoting the Seahawks more than any other town I have walked through.

Seems the Seahawks have historically supported local Port Angeles high school athletics...and the town does not forget.

Gasoline, Guns, Coffee, Besanies (Hats), Beer, and Seahawks go together in Port Angeles.

...as does the national newspaper USA TODAY, who have placed the Seahawks "12th MAN" on the front page.

Now, here is something new.  NISSAN has produced a vehicle which has been evolved into a mini-camper.  This vehicle, sporting a single bed, a small stove, and porta-pottie, is advertised at $70,000.00...

OH, MY !

No Washington town would be complete without a EXPRESSO on each corner.  Port Angeles, too.

A local private home with a rather good model of a sail boat welcoming guests to the front door.

* * * * * * * * * *

I have not walked this afternoon.  It is now 1500 hours (3:00 pm).  A massive weather front is about to come down upon this area; i.e., out of the Pacific Ocean, slamming into the Olympic Peninsula with up to 4 inches of rain and heavy winds purported to last for at least the next 24 hours.

I have elected to stay put in Port Angeles to weather this storm.

The next town, world - famous Forks - is some 40 miles distant...too far for me to walk in one day.  So, may stay two nights in Port Angeles, walking the interesting streets and marinas to be found here.  Also, there is the nearby Ski Resort, Hurricane Ridge, only a short drive from down town.  If the road is clear of snow, may take a drive up to the resort...for the magnificent views into the center (the Olympic Mountains form a "circle" with a wide mountain VALLEY in the center) of the wilds of the Olympic Mountain Rain Forest...which features a herd of some of the world's largest ELK...featured in film by Walt Disney some years ago...and which I, some years ago, had the pleasure to hunt.

Yes, I have been a life-time hunter...until I was personally attacked by a three-point deer, which nearly killed me...but that is another story...